We took an all day bus ride to Pamplona on Friday. Buses in Spain are on time, modern, smooth, and inexpensive. We managed to evade pickpocketers during our stay in Madrid although three other folks in our b&b had phones, wallets, and money stolen. Many madrilenos were heading home from their nights out when we were on our way to the subway at 6:30a. m.
One night in France:
Stayed at l'epsrit du chemin run by some Dutch folks who are completing their own pilgrimage to Jerusalem in pieces. (Currently they are "stuck" in Cyprus). They were remarkably warm and kind, considering they deal with hundreds of smelly, anxious pilgrims. We were treated like royalty for way less than you would spend at a hostel: a 6 course meal included! Leek soup, lentils and sausage over homemade tortellini, zucchini torte, yogurt with quince sauce, salad with nuts, etc. and they sent us off with huge bocadillas (sandwiches)! We thought we'd be roughing it but not so far.
The hike on Saturday was also much easier than we had imagined. We hiked 15miles, mostly in the rain. We met dozens of other hikers throughout the day. At first we were told we could cross the highest pass but were later advised against it. Those who did walk the high route had to post-hole it through 4 feet of snow and arrived many hours later than we did. Two people have died up there in the last few weeks from exposure.
The path lead across muddy paths and lush forest. Black slugs and prickly chestnut skins (which looked like miniature hedgehogs) littered the way. The French houses are all white with stone accents and everyone grows a large patch of leaks and cabbage. We stopped at the border of Spain in Valcarlos and had an exquisite 3 ounces of espresso for 1 euro. Mmmm.
We had to trudge through a bit of snow to get to Roncesvalles where we stayed in a new albergues which can hold hundreds of pilgrims in little alcoves of 2 bunk beds. Some dignity is lost, as people all stink, snore, fart, and vie for the showers. Man, the rustling we all make as we rummage through our backpacks in the mornings is cacophonous!
Speaking of backpacks, I feel very happy with what I have brought. Just right, but others are jettisoning things like crazy, which means there is a skua freebie system here which could get us into serious trouble! So many shirts, European toiletries which smell so yummy, and cozy leggings! I need to restrain myself (and Scott) - we both are terrible suckers for good quality free stuff!
1 comment:
Sounds wonderful so far!
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